Forgive the bad pun. When he started out in the late 1990s, Mas set out to make wines to export: “Selling wines to the French is like trying to sell hamburgers to the Americans.” Consequently, he exports, to 58 countries, 97 per cent of the 20 million bottles he produces annually. I think the problem with selling wine to the French (and burgers to the Americans) is that they have discerning palates… I have reviewed a number of Paul Mas wines (click the links below or use the search function on the home page) and most are good in quality. Sadly this is not. It is a stylish looking bottle and promised so much – 100% chardonnay, a very good producer; it should be like champagne – just produced outside the region. Well, it wasn’t…

Tasting notes: Very pale colour and soft mousse. Fresh apple and citrus nose. Off-dry. Not ‘Brut’ as the neck label states. In the same way that prosecco is off-dry. This may have appeal – but is odd in a 100% chardonnay wine. No yeasty, biscuit notes – I’m deducing the Charmat method. I think fermentation was stopped early, leaving residual sugar (it’s 12%abv). Not actively unpleasant; refreshing is the best I can say. We didn’t finish the bottle, between three adults on a hot evening, at our first social gathering after nearly 10 weeks of lockdown….

Wine Colour – White
Price – £15 reduced to £8
Where do I get it from? Sainsbury’s
Current Vintage – NV
Producer – Paul Mas (Jean Claude Mas)
Grape – Chardonnay
Region/Country – Limoux/Languedoc – France

Verdict – acceptable wine at £8 – but definitely not at £15.

Food Pairing: A reasonable aperitif that might suit lovers of prosecco.